Игры

Руководство по созданию собственного игрового ПК

Для некоторых мысль о создании собственного ПК — непростое, даже немыслимое дело; очень мало людей рискуют в корпусе компьютера, не говоря уже о попытке собрать его с нуля. Что ж, хорошая новость в том, что каждый может расслабиться, потому что это действительно не такая сложная задача, как вы думаете, и я собираюсь показать вам, как это сделать.

В ноябре прошлого года, около Дня благодарения, я только что закончил аспирантуру и, наконец, у меня было достаточно времени, чтобы разобраться со стеком игр , которые накапливались у меня на столе, для предстоящего праздника с новыми выпусками, когда мой компьютер сломался . Насколько я могу диагностировать, я верю, что умерла материнская плата . Я полагаю, что таким же легко мог быть процессор, но я склонен думать, что процессоры имеют немного более длительный срок службы, чем Mobo. Особенно Mobo на голых бюджетных ПК, как у меня.

В прошлом, когда дело дошло до покупки нового ПК, моим девизом было покупать дешево и обновлять. Я купил бюджетный настольный компьютер eMachines осенью 2005 года за 500 долларов. Из коробки это было не то, что я бы назвал игровым ПК, на самом деле многие игры на нем не запускались, но я сразу же обновил и видеокарту, и ОЗУ, и вот, мой игровой ПК ожил.

На этот раз я не собирался дешеветь и умирать менее чем через 2 года, у меня также были некоторые довольно специфические системные характеристики, с которыми я хотел встретиться. После недели просмотра большинства игровых ПК, созданных крупными парнями (например, Dell , Alienware, HP , Sony и т. Д.), Я пришел к выводу, что эти ПК не будут соответствовать моим конкретным характеристикам по цене, которую я был готов заплатить. Еще одна большая проблема, с которой я столкнулся в последнее время с готовыми ПК, будь то в магазине или по почте, — это десятки ненужных программ или нежелательного программного обеспечения, которые поставляются предварительно загруженными. 90-дневное испытание McAfee , 60-дневное испытание Norton , MS Officeпроба и тд. Должно быть, было 15 или более вредоносных программ, которые мне пришлось часами пытаться удалить. Эти программы не только раздражают всплывающими окнами, но и значительно замедляют запуск и операционную систему . Именно в это время я решил попробовать свой собственный компьютер.

Моя статья о создании собственного игрового ПК посвящена отдельным частям, которые я использовал на своем игровом ПК, а также содержит ссылки на другие замечательные части, из которых мне пришлось выбирать. Прошу прощения за мои любительские фотографии, но я также загрузил свой фото-журнал деталей и процесса, чтобы помочь визуализировать его лучше.

Детали Выбор компонентов, которые будут входить в состав вашего игрового ПК или любого другого ПК, вероятно, сложнее, чем их фактическое соединение. Вы должны убедиться, что все совместимо друг с другом, прежде чем покупать. Процессор, ОЗУ и видеокарта должны быть совместимы с материнской платой; источник питания должен обеспечить достаточное количество сока для питания всего, короче говоря, вам нужно провести небольшое исследование, прежде чем покупать какие-либо детали.

Части, необходимые

  • Чехол — NZXT Hush
  • Блок питания — Ultra X3 1000 Вт
    • Конфигурация моего ПК на момент написания статьи, вероятно, требует не более 600 Вт блока питания. Тем не менее, я хотел обновить опцию, добавив вторую графическую карту PCI-e SLI или конфигурацию RAID с несколькими жесткими дисками . Изначально я выбрал источник питания Ultra X3 800 Вт, но нашел Ultra X3 1000 Вт в сети всего за несколько долларов, что сделало мое решение перейти с большего размера намного проще. Блок питания Ultra X3 1000 Вт является одновременно энергосберегающим и бесшумным. Он также позволяет подключать только те кабели, которые вам нужны, чтобы не было никаких дополнительных болтов внутри корпуса. Для новейших видеокарт также предусмотрены 6- и 8-контактные разъемы питания PCI-e.
  • ЦП — четырехъядерный процессор Intel Core 2 Extreme QX6850
    • Решение о том, какой процессор выбрать, было, наверное, самым сложным. Когда я начал этот процесс, я знал, что хочу многоядерный процессор, я выбрал Intel вместо AMD, потому что у Intel в настоящее время есть рынок на многоядерных процессорах, причем большинство их процессоров тестировались быстрее, чем то, что AMD выпускала в прошлом. год. Сайт Tom’s Hardware и их графики процессора и сравнения были очень полезны. Я выбрал четырехъядерный процессор Intel Core 2 Extreme QX6850, который теперь является третьим по быстродействию процессором Intel после QX9770 и QX9650. На данный момент производительность не намного лучше, чем у двухъядерных процессоров класса high-end, но я делаю ставку на преимущества четырехъядерного процессора, когда игры, оптимизированные для четырехъядерных процессоров, будут выпущены.
  • Вентилятор радиатора / процессора — светодиод Zalman CNPS9700
    • CPUs packaged by the manufacturer typically include a Heatsink and fan, this was the case with my QX6850. You can save a few extra dollars by purchasing your chip OEM, but this will only include the chip, no manufacturer packaging, manual or heatsink/fan. Typically the heatsink/fan that comes from Intel or AMD is not sufficient if you want to perform any overclocking. Although I don’t plan on doing any until my chip starts to show the signs of being dated, I bought a Zalman CNPS 9700 LED-based on numerous good reviews. It is quite large but fits in my mid-tower NZXT case with ease. The fan is extremely quiet at idle but does get a little louder than I expected when it’s RPM is cranked up.
  • Motherboard — ASUS Striker Extreme
    • When choosing a motherboard I wanted one that would support Intel’s new 45nm Chip architecture, I also wanted one that would take advantage of the 1333MHz front-side bus(FSB) found in the QX6850. The Striker Extreme supports dual channel DDR2 RAM, NVIDIA nForce® 680i SLI as well as all the cables and power cords you’ll need. I also wanted a mobo that would support the USB, firewire and other media slots in the front panel media reader I wanted to install.
  • Graphics Card eVGA GeForce 8800GTS 512MB
    • The Graphics Card is probably the second most important component for gaming behind the CPU. When I first set out I had planned on going with the 8800 Ultra but at a whopping $700-800 price tag I decided to reconsider. I finally decided on the brand new eVGA GeForce 8800GTS 512MB. This graphics card is built on a new architecture and despite having less memory that the GTX and older 8800GTS (which are both a year old), it runs on less power and has outperformed both. The price to performance ratio of this card was head and shoulders above the others and made my decision easier.
  • RAM — Corsair DOMINATOR 2GB PC2-8500 DDR2 DIMM Dual Channel Memory Kit
    • One fact that many people don’t realize is that having more RAM isn’t always going to make your applications run faster. 32 bit operating systems only support the use of 2GB of RAM so putting 4GB into your PC isn’t going to make things run faster since the OS can’t use it all. 64 bit OSs can support up to 16GB of RAM but the move to 64 bit operating systems has been a slow one. We’ll get there eventually but until that time I decided to stick with 2GB and select Corsair Dominator RAM which is well known for PC gaming RAM.
  • Hard Drive — Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 500GB Hard Drive
    • I went with the Seagate Barracuda 500GB hard drive based on past experience. I’ve had Seagate hard drives in the past and have never had any problems with them. That’s not to say other brands are any different, I just went with what I knew and was comfortable with. It’d be nice to have a second hard drive so I could set up some sort of RAID control but that will have to wait for now.
  • DVD/Optical Drive — LG Electronics GSA-H55L Dual Layer DVD±RW Writer
    • There are dozens of different DVD Drives, I decided upon the LG GSA H55L basically because it was on sale at Best Buy and had all the features I was looking for. Read/Write in any format DVD+/-R, DL+/-R DVD RW, etc. and had Lightscribe labeling capability.
  • Media Reader — Ultra MD3 Media Dashboard
    • One think I liked about my old eMachines PC was it’s front panel media reader. For my new PC, I purchased the Ultra MD3 Media Dashboard. This media reader allows be to insert most types of media cards; USB, Firewire, SD, SDHC, SM, and others. In addition to the media reader, it also comes with 2 fan controls and temperature readouts with alarms.

Putting It All Together

When handling your computer components, especially things with exposed circuitry (i.e. CPU, motherboard, RAM, graphics cards. etc.), I highly recommend doing so with static gloves or a static wrist strap on, or at the least make doubly sure you’re grounded. You don’t want to send a static shock to your high priced components before you’ve even got it built. Make sure to never plug any of your components into an electrical outlet. At no point during the building process do you want any of your components plugged into an electrical outlet. Not until step 14 is it ok to plug your power supply into

Steps 6-9 can be performed before or after steps 1-5 the key is that you want your case set and ready along with the CPU and RAM installed in the motherboard, prior to installing the motherboard in the case.

Tools

Some basic tools are probably all you’ll need for building your PC. A Phillips head screwdriver, needle nose pliers, static gloves, plastic fasteners, and electricians tape is all I used. The static gloves or grounding strap is very important and you don’t want to pass any static charge on to any of the components before you even get it running. I’d also recommend a pair of scissors for cutting the plastic ties and a small magnet for pulling out those small screws you may drop but that’s about all.

  1. Read/Review the Manuals

    Before starting to put everything together it’s important you at least review the manuals and know generally where your components will go. For example, most Motherboards come with pretty good labeling on the board itself but it’s still a good idea to what all the pins and sockets do before you start.

  2. Setup the Case

    Setting up the case prior to installing anything is quite simple. Every case is different some complete completely setup, while others require you to install the case fans. In the list, you can expect to un-twist some twist ties and move the cables so they don’t obstruct anything you’re going to be installing. The most important task in this step is to install the motherboard standards. These are small screws or spacers that the motherboard will be mounted on. Most cases support multiple motherboard layouts so you’ll want to make sure you place the standards in the correct case slots so you can later line up the screw holes in the motherboard.

  3. Install the Power Supply

    If a power supply comes pre-installed with your case then you can skip this step. The majority of cases available however do not come with a power supply due to the fact that power requirements vary quite a bit depending on the components you’ll be installing. Installation of the power supply, like preparing the case is quite simple. Just make sure you have the power supply fan and rear power cord jack is facing the correct direction and that the screws are securely fastened.

  4. Install DVD/Misc Front Bay Drives

    I chose to install my DVD and media reader next. I’ve seen other tutorials recommend doing this step after the motherboard has been installed but by installing these now, prior to the motherboard will in many cases avoid having to maneuver cables around your RAM and/or CPU fan. Snap out the front panel, pushing or pressing on the plastic tabs from the inside should release them, and then slide the DVD or other drives into the bay from the front feeding any cables in first. I installed the media reader on top mainly because there was a more direct route to the CPU for the fan and temperature controllers than there was on the second drive bay down. The DVD went into the second drive bay without a hitch.

  5. Install Hard Drive

    Installing the hard drive was another step that I chose to do prior to installing the motherboard. The way the internal HDD bays line up with other components I found it easier putting this in now rather than fight with cords and components trying to slide it into the drive bay. The screwless drive bays in the NZXT Hush case made installation a breeze.

  6. Install CPU

    If there is a most important component to your PC, the CPU is it. This delicate microchip is the brain of your PC and should be handled that way. You never want to touch the CPU pins, holding it by the edges is the best recommendation. Installing into the motherboard is not overly difficult. The CPU socket on the motherboard is generally easy to find and is covered by a load plate and load plate cover to protect the socket when the CPU is not installed. The first step of installing the CPU is to gently unfasten and life the load plate. The load plate/socket cover should push out without having to apply too much force.

    Once the load plate is up you’ll want to align the CPU with the socket. Intel CPUs have two tiny groves cut out on opposite sides of the silicon which should line up with two notches in the socket. Line them up and gently drop in the CPU. Intel’s multi-core CPUs (Socket T/LGA775) are a «pinless» design, meaning they don’t have actual pins sticking out that fit into the holes of a socket. Instead, they use tiny contact points which align with the socket’s contact points. This means there’s no need to push the chip or risk bending any CPU pins. Some older chips, both AMD and Intel, still use the old technology but if you’re building a new PC you’re most likely using a new chip.

    Once the chip is resting in place, close the load plate and secure it with the load lever. At first, this may seem like you’re pushing down a bit hard but as long as you’re using the level and not putting much (if any) force on the load plate everything should be fine and your CPU will be locked in place.

  7. Install CPU Heatsink and Fan

    Just prior to installing the CPU Heatsink and fan you’ll need to apply some thermal compound or grease. The thermal compound helps transfer the heat generated by the CPU to the heatsink better. All you need is a thin coat, the Zalman CNPS9700 LED heatsink I used came with a small bottle and brush to apply but if your compound is in a tube just apply a small amount and spread it evenly on the chip with something flat (i.e. an old credit card, business card, etc.). If you’re using the factory Intel or AMD heatsink you’ll need to purchase some thermal compound separately.

    After the thermal compound has been applied you’re ready to install attach the heatsink. With Intel and AMD heatsink/fans the fan blows directly onto the CPU from the top so you don’t need to take any of the other fans inside the case into consideration. However, if you have a heatsink/CPU fan that’s geared more towards overclocking like the Zalman CNPS9700 LED that you’ll need to make sure the orientation of the fan blades is correct and matches that of the case fans so air is being blown in the same direction. In the case of the NZXT Hush case, there is an intake fan in the front and an exhaust fan in the back so I want to make sure my CPU fan is blowing air towards the back of the case. Each case and CPU heatsink/fan can be different so it’s best to read the manual for correct installation.

    Actually installing the CPU heatsink is just a matter of locking down the fasteners or screwing in the mounting screws. Once this is done, go ahead and plug the fan cable into the motherboard CPU Fan connector.

  8. Install RAM

    The last component to install onto the motherboard before installing it into the case is the RAM. Start by locating the empty RAM slots on the motherboard. The vast majority of motherboards will have DDR2 RAM slots, there should be at least two slots, with mid to high ending motherboards having four. Located on either end of the RAM slot are retaining clips that will hold the RAM in place, open these by pushing them in opposite directions away from the center of the slot. Then with both hands pick up the RAM memory module by its edges and line it up with the socket so the grooved portion of memory lines up with the notch in the socket. It only fits one way so you’ll want to make sure you have this correct before pushing it down into the slot. When you’re confident you have the RAM chip lined up properly push down on both ends until the retaining clips snap into place.

    Repeat this process for as many RAM memory modules that you’re installing.

  9. Install the Motherboard

    By this time all the hard work starts to pay off as you’ll begin to see the internal parts of the PC start to come together. Prior to installing the motherboard, as mentioned in step #2, make sure you have cleared the motherboard area in the case of any cables and make sure the standings are in the proper position for your specific mobo. Then gently lower the motherboard onto the standings and insert the screws. Screws should secure the motherboard to the case, but they should not be too tight, as you don’t want to damage the board. You also don’t want it loose enough to where it can be moved around at all.

  10. Install the Graphics Card

    Next on our list of things to do is install the graphics card. There are two types of graphics cards; AGP cards and PCI-e Cards. AGP Cards have become less favorable in gaming PCs as they typically don’t run as fast or have as much onboard memory as PCI-e cards. PCI-e graphics cards also have the ability to be paired with a duplicate card this nearly doubling your graphics computing power. The dual graphics cards do need to be of the same brand and model, however.

    Much like inserting the CPU and RAM modules, graphics cards are going to snap into the PCI-e or AGP slots in much the same fashion. You will first need to remove the backplate from the back of the case and then carefully insert the card into the empty expansion slot, fasten it to the case and you’re all done. Loading the drivers from the CD-ROM will happen after you’ve installed the operating system in step 15.

  11. Install Misc Cards (Sound, RAID Controllers, USB Expansion, etc.)

    Installing other cards is very similar to what was done for the graphics card; remove the back expansion plate and insert the card into the proper slot. For my set-up, I needed to install the sound card that came along with the ASUS Striker Motherboard. A great addition for the future will be another graphics card and possibly a Phys-X card.

  12. Connect Drives & Cables to the Motherboard

    The biggest challenge I found was trying to make sense of how to organize all of the cables. Connecting the CD-ROM, Heatsink/CPU fan, Hard Drives and everything else is quite simple. The motherboard was labeled very nice and connecting them was straightforward. One tip when hooking everything up is to try to keep the cables from getting tangled up too much. This is where the plastic ties came in handy, I also used some electrical tape to tape some cables down so there were out of the way in case I need to get back in to add or change something.

  13. Connect Peripherals

    Connecting the keyboard and mouse is the next logical step prior to powering up the PC for the first time. I would recommend not closing up the case just yet as you may need to make some minor tweaks or change some connections to make sure your BIOS is working right.

  14. Setup BIOS

    We’re not ready to fire up your PC for the first time. Setting up the BIOS shouldn’t be hard and in most cases, if you’ve connected everything correctly you most likely won’t need to do anything. Simply turn the PC on and wait for the BIOS startup messages to appear. I’d recommend inserting your Operating System Disk at this time since you’ll probably get an OS not found error. I did have a minor issue with my BIOS setup; since I’m using an external Fan controller the CPU fan was not connected to the motherboard and this it was throwing an error stating that the CPU fan speed was too low (it displayed 0 RPM) I reconnected the CPU fan to the motherboard and it started up without issues the second time.

  15. Organize Cables & Close Case

    Before closing up the case, it’s good to make sure there are no loose cables floating around that could interfere with fans or anything else. Plastic ties and some electrical tape or fasteners should do the trick here.

  16. Connect Remaining Peripherals

    Once everything is closed up, connecting speakers, printers and any other external peripherals can be done at this point. It’s good to have everything connected so you can get all the drivers loaded as you’re installing the operating system in the next step.

  17. Finish Installing Operating System

    At this point you’re at the home stretch, installing the Operating System is very easy just insert the CD-ROM and follow the onscreen installation and setup wizard as you are prompted.

  18. Install Drivers

    Microsoft tries to include a comprehensive list of drivers with Windows but it’s not always the case. In this step go ahead and install any missing drivers so everything is functioning and recognized correctly by the OS.

  19. Install the Games

Now’s the time to throw in that first game you’ve been dying to play, install and enjoy!

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